Does anyone have a shock valving chart for 2.5 Race Runners? I was at Race Ready and they had one for FOX's 2.5, but to me it looked like the Fox have more than 5 shims, like the Sway a ways do. Anyone know? Is it ok to use the fox one?
I understand the feel of the truck. I know what the thickness of shims that I have is. .010, .010, .012, .012, .012, (for rebound) now I am wanting to increase the speed of the rebound, so the shock will rebound faster. So do I accross the board go thinner, with .008, .008, .010, .010, .010, or do I change just some of them, like the smallest three, down to .010 Pretty much where I am coming from, is I an new to rebuildable shocks, I was pratically born in the desert, but new to the racing scene. What it looks like from the FOX chart, if you want to increase compression or rebound by 5% or 10% or 50% this is the shims that you would need to run.
I have wondered the same thing before about how many of the discs you change...About the chart, is it to get a starting point on the valving for different applications or for something else? I need to revalve some fox 2.0s for my buggy, before they were on my fullsize so Im sure the valving is way off...
thats the Bitch about valving shocks just right it takes forever and your runing a flutter stack which means those .008 shims are your low speed and if you pull really hard against the shock those cross over into the .010 shims making it harder, ive been playing with bypasses alot so I dont know how much difference .002 all the way around will make, cuz it depends on wieght and location of the shock and what ratio your running them at, all I now is that you want the tire to rebound as fast as you can get it so it always stays in contact with the ground we use video camera to watch the suspension work and then review it in slow motion to see what its doing, I would call around some shops and tell them what you have and maybe they can give you a more exact answer to your question..Mike
<font color=red>The dump you take is the gold I make so I can afford to play and race!</font color=red>
Call Mike Arthur at <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.kartek.com>www.kartek.com</A>, he sold me a set of shocks that worked damn near perfect out of the box...When I put the coils on, I explained that low speed was fine but the hard landings needed about 10-15% more. He faxed me the shim info and ups'd them out the same day. The service is great and he listens well....Curt
Actually a "flutter" stack is one that uses a stack, usally about 2-3 shims, then goes back to a full stack, usally of thicker shims. like this ----------
I knows it a bad example but its the best i can do. The shim thickness is important but the one of the biggest things to work with is the "rate plate" and where it is in relation to the primary shims.
IMO I would take it to someone who does it on a daily basis. I think average cost is like $30-60 a shock to valve. I think the price would be worth the labor that you or I would put into taking it apart, valving, taking apart, valving over and over again.
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