warm truck wont start

hxckidd

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So my friend has a 94 ranger 3.0 and after she has been driving it and the truck is warm. If she turns it off to run into a store and comes back out it wont start. It will turn over and stumble a couple times but wont start. Usually it takes about 5-10 minutes to start up. Anyone experience this problem or know what it might be?
 

TRDshaunTRD

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I experienced that with my 4.0 V6 Ranger and my engine light would come on as well. The truck would need time to rest and then it would start fine as if it was flooded. Ford told me that it was on O2 censor, and I replaced that, and it didn’t solve the problem. I eventually sold the truck never knowing what the problem ended up being. A lot of help I am!
 

Mike_HKmtrsprts

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I know theadore robbins ford in costa mesa will diagnose a problem for $35 bucks I did it once when I couldnt figure out what was wrong with my brakes I just told them I wanted an estimate and then told them I could fix that my self they were cool and said $35 bucks and your on your way, there could could be 10 things that relate to your problem from sensors to and ing. cont. mod. idle air circuit, starter selinoid.. starter or fender mounted selinoid? the list goes on!! good luck...Mike
 

NORCALf150

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just wanted to throw this out there my f150 did the same thing was dirty fuel injectors but like hk mike said could be a couple things
 

hxckidd

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from my experience they now charge like 65 bucks or one hours worth of time. Thanks for the help guys i was hoping someone has had the same problem and found the solution.
 

Dillon

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Take it down to Santa Margarita Ford, ask for Bob Price in the service department and tell him Dillon Poole sent you, he should hook you up. Then tell him to get real shocks for his Bronco haha
 

dadomin8r

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get an account on "ford-trucks.com" and post in the appropriate section for all your Ford needs. There is always someone who has some input on your problem. There are a lot of mechanics on that site. The moderators are really helpfull too.
 

slimjim

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i had the same thing in my 2.9 a few years ago. i heard then that when the starters get old they have a hard time working when hot - so i replaced my starter - that wasn't it for me, but it might be a good place to start for you because it is an easy swap. if you know somebody with a 3.0 try borrowing theirs for a swap.
i would begin by checking the battery ground cables though. on my 2.9 i have a ground from the battery to the chassis, battery to the body, and battery to the motor/transmission. you need them all grounded well.
 

hxckidd

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its not the starter that has the problem. the starter kicks over the engine and the engine will start but spudders then dies. You can hear the fuel pump working when you turn the key so I dont think its that either.
 

Mike_HKmtrsprts

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if you want a customer owes me a favor for unclogging a toilet he is a mechanic in huntingotn beach if you want I can have you drive it over there and he will hook it up to the computer and read the code and tell you whats wrong...let me know, Mike
 

ACID_RAIN28

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I have a similar problem with my truck it is a 67 chevy with a regular 350. when it gets hot it will not start, but I can hit the starter with the screwdriver trick and the motor will turn on the start but no engage, this would leave one to believe it is the silienoid (sp), but the misery is that if I hook it up to another car with the motor running it will turn over. It acts like if the batter is not at full par it won't start. But I know the battery is good because it came from one of the spectrucks and it is a deepcyle never used until now. Any one have a suggestion or should I just be anti lazy and pull the starter?
 

John Bitting

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The not starting warm is a common problem in older chevys because the solenoid would get to hot and not allow the starter to turn over. Do a search on the net. I think people actually have wrapped them in that header tape stuff and made heat shields..
 

tedmales

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i had a 70 chevy truck that had a 383 with a small blower on it. ran great, but would just not always start. if i jumped the wire from the switch to the starter with 12 volts directly from the battery it would fire off. i replaced the ingnition switch and the all the wires. it had too much voltage drop in the switch. replaced it again, same problem. i had to put a relay in that is closed by the ignition switch, that gets power directly from the battery. cured it and no problems since. i have done the same modification to at least 8 more cars.
 

TxPhPrerunner

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Use a Ford silinoid. Hot Rodders used to use them all the time to cure this problem. Very common on older Chevys. One way to know if the remote silinoid or relay trick will work is if you can start it by jumping it with direct battery line.
 

fnkrngr

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Try and post over at the ranger station and see if you can get a answer there
 
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