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Were to get uniball shafts with taper made?

Fifty

Well-Known Member
Well, seems like the curse of this truck has struck again.

About 18 months ago I had Evil Mfg make a set of upper control arms and cage/heim steering links made. Or rather I should say I asked them and they said no problem... and about 6 months went by with promise after promise after promise and the arms finally came after they had been test fitted on another same make and model truck... (which eventually became the final hold up)

The steering linkage was always just about to be done or just waiting to be test fitted before being sent etc etc etc. Then my thing with Mcneil racing completely screwing me took my mind off the suspension pieces and trying to fix all of that disaster. Those still have not been finished or delivered.

Long story short is the factory upper ball joints are destroyed (GM does not use serviceable joints s the whole arm has to be replaced) and I went to go throw the fabricated arms on since the steering links still are not done. I have 4 knuckles and the uniball shafts have a different taper. So its not a matter of maybe a weird manufactured oem knuckle.

Im done waiting, trusting or what ever you want to call it for the the shop who made the arms to get back to me on this fiasco. I realize that I can bore the knuckles out straight and get the length pin/rod etc that I need. But at that rate, how much harder is it to get a uniball pin/rod that has the correct taper machined?

Im in the bay area of california if that helps for a recommendation. I have a pair of knuckles sitting here as well
 

Fifty

Well-Known Member
Ah. I forgot about busby. I am going to call bajakits on Monday as well. They have a “prerunner” kit for this truck that uses a stock knuckle and a 1 inch uniball.
Hope they have and will sell me a rod...bolt... what ever it is called.
 

isdtbower

Well-Known Member
TMR Customs, Canada has made several items like that for me in 17-4 stainless. I will heat treat. Always perfect and timely. Mike is a contact.
 

Fifty

Well-Known Member
33EDC178-2671-4A1C-B1F2-1B20386B4417.jpeg


The part on the right is what evil Mfg sent. It’s one piece machined. The taper is incorrect and the Lower half is large in diameter. But the spacing for the top is correct. That spacing is 3/4”

The part on the left is what bajakits sent. It’s the part for their “prerunner kit”. It’s a sleeve for a bolt. The taper is perfect but the spacer is too tall. It’s 1.5”

I need to see if I can get that part made where it’s only 3/4” tall.

Or if I have to have a machine shop make one like on the right that is the correct dimensions...
 

Fifty

Well-Known Member
Busby sold to extreme scaffolding and they just do retail sales now.
 

43mod

Well-Known Member
good for him. He helped me w modified things a lot. $2.5 gallon race fuel for years .
 

Fifty

Well-Known Member
Have found one place that said they “may be able to do it”.
They want $150 to sit down and look at the part and then to quote me for design and fabrication. $150 not applicable to the final price etc. not refundable if they are unable to do the job...

Naturally I said eat a douche stick
 

Fifty

Well-Known Member
Can anyone think of a reason not to cut 3/4” out of the fat meaty section where it’s the spacer part?

It will make it the correct size, just now a 2 piece.

I’ve found no one willing to make this for me, and I really need to get this truck back working.

Pissed that I’ve received zero help from the guy who made the arms.
 

43mod

Well-Known Member
the entire thing looks weak already. That's my one reason . I wish I had the solution. I have a lathe but limited skills so not much help there.
 

michael.gonzalez

Well-Known Member
You can call BajaKits and have them make you that same spacer but at the height that you need.

It won't be cheap but I know they can do it.
 

isdtbower

Well-Known Member
It seems to me that the critical part is the omniball flange. It has to mate perfect. That is done. The rest if just basic lathe work on a manual lathe. It doesn't even have to be centered perfectly with the omni ball. The taper can be lapped in when you get it back for any small deviation. If there is anything weak it is the flange being so small and/or thin. If it is hard that adds some drama to the cutting...and it should be hard with a grade 9 bolt down the center. Ask around for a retired garage hobbyist. Hot rod people will know. It should take no more than 10 minutes to give a yay or nay. And maybe some tooling if hard. And I have mounted a 4" angle grinder in the cross slide to do hard stuff. Find an old guy........
 

Fifty

Well-Known Member
I’ve got a buddy who is an old hot rod guy.
He has a metal lathe and he is going to look for a parting tool to slice out 3/4 inch. I think it’s a 1/2 inch radius on the thick part or there abouts. rather a cutter for a 1/2 Inch radius should have us sorted.

His only concern was the two halves spinning some how and maybe wearing each other or the aluminum knuckle or who knows what (he wasn’t sure if it would cause a problem, just suggested getting it back to one piece so there wouldn’t be any) and suggested that I Tig them back together after they are cut.

His lathe hasn’t run for about 7 years, so I’m going to grab a piece of 1 inch metal rod and do some test cuts first so we know what we are doing... lol.

Anyways, that’s the plan as it stands. I need to find out what type of tool his lathe uses so I can order the correct parting tool.
 

isdtbower

Well-Known Member
Didn't you say that there is enough metal to make it a one piece? I wouldn't trust welding..well maybe as a bolt down the center. But to use a cut-off tool is my last resort. The compound of the cross slide should put the taper back in just fine. It is not that long. Just the way I see it. every machinist sees things differently ass they are comfortable with different tools.

Actually your problem is going to figure out how to lock the bolt so it doesn't/can't back off. One piece or welded gives you a chance unless insode the upright somehow. You have a plan...Cool!
 

Fifty

Well-Known Member
My plan was to cut the spacer part of the piece where the two red lines are, taking out that middle 3/4". (the one on the right is the one with the wrong taper and the bottom half is 5/8 and needs to be 1/2 but mostly not only do I not know how to machine a taper, let alone cut it down to the 1/2" and thread it, i cant find a machine shop willing to do it)
 

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Fifty

Well-Known Member
Here you can see its hollow for a 1/2 inch bolt that goes through the whole thing. The top of the bolt, on the uniball side is the top of the bolt, the bottom, under the knuckle, is a washer and nut.

The last picture shows how the spacer sits. This is a 1.5 ich spacer and it needs to be 3/4"...
 

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Fifty

Well-Known Member
Bad pic but its all I had on the computer. This shows the misalignments and the spacer/taper piece with the bolt through it. Horrible pic I know, but Im just trying to throw up as much data as possible to try to help make my idea clear.
 

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