What (if any) OEM hub/rotor/caliper assembly with 2.0" snout???

atomicjoe23

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I'm not really sure if this belongs in this forum section or not. . .it was either here or suspension steering and here seemed a little more fitting. . .if it doesn't belong here, my apologies and hopefully the moderator will move it. . .

. . .back to the question at hand. . .I'm thinking of building a set of my own uprights for a budget play buggy based on Class 10 rules and using a 2.0" snout. . .

so. . .what, if any, OEM hub/rotor/caliper combination could I use with a 2.0" snout? This is my first forray into doing something completely custom, in the past it has just been upgrading OEM parts with a better, application specific aftermarket part, so I apologize for my ignorance ahead of time. . .I know that I can get aftermarket parts specifically for the 2.0" snout, but they are kinda pricy and I'm a college student so I was hoping to start out with OEM parts that I scavenge from the junkyard. . .that way at least I can build the buggy initially at a reasonable price and in a reasonable amount of time and start enjoying, then as I can afford to, or as I need to because I break stuff I can upgrade to racing parts. . .

. . .I will be building the chassis to full Class 10 specs and then upgrading the running gear as I can afford it.

Thanks!
 

stoprez2006

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On my baja bug which is going to be an a-arm car using all fabricated parts (arms, uprights, etc.) I am using the unitized hubs from the 2nd gen Dodge 1/2 tons. They are pretty cheap (for hubs, calipers and rotors for all four corners is right around the same cost as aftermarket kits for the front end of the car) and as far as strength goes i figure if the are good enough for those heavy trucks with 35" tires they should be good enough for a light weight car.
 

Motiracer38

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Typically 5x5.5, and no, they look nothing like what you're thinking of. Google it for a pic but it looks just like two flanges with a bearing in the middle? I'm not sure how to describe it.

For what you're looking for I think you be best with a Toyota 4x4 snout and hub if you are running 33s, or a Dana 44 snout and hub if you are running 35s. 37s really do need need specially designed desert snouts and hubs if you're racing. Check Kartek's website for typical designs, but they are pricey. It is easy enough to scrounge the Dana 44 assembly off a straight axle or beam set and bolt it on to spindles. I'm not sure where I got my snout blocks from, but they are simple and cheaper than BMS- no offense guys, just out of my range.
 

Tim_Flahart

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Late 87 to early 88 Ford bronco and F-150 run a short 2" snout. The bearings are cheap and it uses the same inner and outer. The only thing is it's a very small bearing spread, .5" vs 1.5" on a D44. It is 5x5.5 bolt pattern.

Here is a pick of the flanged D44 snout vs a common D44

 

atomicjoe23

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Tim,

thanks for posting that pic. . .I'm assuming the top pic is the flanged D44 snout and the lower pic is the common D44 snout??? because that's the way you listed them. . .or is it flipped. . .sorry I really haven't looked at these before and I haven't had a chance to go scrounge in the junkyard yet either.

The only off-road rig I've got right now is a Jeep YJ with a D30 front/D35 rear and the only thing I've done with it is a 2" body lift. . .

. . .I'm not new to fab work, me and 3 buddies built a single seat STV (Sport Terrain Vehicle) to race baased on UTV components. . .cost us about $6000 to build the entire thing (62.5" track width and 76" wheelbase) so this will be my first full-size build. . .
 
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