What is the cheapest to build???

smt racing

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Check out this first link, Built by legendary Manny Esquerra 7s this is a good deal. I really dont think you need to look any further than right hear. I would suggest you pick a dollor figure you want to spend, buy used but buy smart. Buy something that someone has spent a ton of dollars on in parts and has the truck some what dialed in (spring rates, shocks, ect...Mannys old truck has big dolloars in parts). Also hear are some o ther links to trucks mostly under 20K. I have a lot of good insite to racing and have been doing this for years both on my own and at the factory level you can email me at steve@smttec.com if you want more information from me...good luck
http://www.race-dezert.com/cgi-bin/trader/atl.cgi?ct=5&md=second&id=9819
http://www.race-dezert.com/cgi-bin/trader/atl.cgi?ct=5&md=second&id=9996
http://www.race-dezert.com/cgi-bin/trader/atl.cgi?ct=5&md=second&id=9961
http://www.race-dezert.com/cgi-bin/trader/atl.cgi?ct=5&md=second&id=9927
http://www.race-dezert.com/cgi-bin/trader/atl.cgi?ct=5&md=second&id=9919
http://www.race-dezert.com/cgi-bin/trader/atl.cgi?ct=5&md=second&id=9898
http://www.race-dezert.com/cgi-bin/trader/atl.cgi?ct=5&md=second&id=9877
http://www.race-dezert.com/cgi-bin/trader/atl.cgi?ct=5&md=second&id=9847
 

PALAPABOY

Bajalite Win Streak Killer
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My 1450 truck is so dependable, must people do not believe my prep. Here is my list;
Every 5 years change the 3rd member gear
Every 3 years rebuild the transmission
Every 2 years change the shock oil
Every 2 years change the ball joints
Every 2 years change the upper hiems only
Every 2 years powder coat the arms
Every 2 years weld a crack
Every 2 trips clean the air filter
Every 4 races change the fluids
Every race, finished but 1 when the transmission went out after the 3 years from rebuild

So it is true. Built for less with less maintenance.

Its for sale $22,000.

Wow! If that works for you for a prep expence list then that's great, but I don't see anywhere on your list about a few items that add up quick like:

tires & wheels
fiberglass, paint & bodywork
fuel cell & fuel related filters
lights (if you race any night races)
steering & steering box

I've seen your truck at races before and you guys go pretty good and having your shop to prep the truck in should count for something too. Don't mean for this to be taken the wrong way, but if that is all you have to do on your truck, to be as competive as you guys are, I think you might have left a few things out.

We prep our truck all in house and send out parts to be crack checked, transmission freshend, third member checked , and our preps add up to at least $5,000 per race. And when we did the Baja 1000 last year we spent over $10,000 just to get to the starting line.
 

M.Harvey1600

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Wow! If that works for you for a prep expence list then that's great, but I don't see anywhere on your list about a few items that add up quick like:

tires & wheels
fiberglass, paint & bodywork
fuel cell & fuel related filters
lights (if you race any night races)
steering & steering box

I've seen your truck at races before and you guys go pretty good and having your shop to prep the truck in should count for something too. Don't mean for this to be taken the wrong way, but if that is all you have to do on your truck, to be as competive as you guys are, I think you might have left a few things out.

We prep our truck all in house and send out parts to be crack checked, transmission freshend, third member checked , and our preps add up to at least $5,000 per race. And when we did the Baja 1000 last year we spent over $10,000 just to get to the starting line.

amen... our 1600 gets expensive also... to b competitive and finish races it costs a good chunk of $... when u start 2 scrimp on prep 2 save $ u start start losing reliability... which can cost more than the $ u saved n the 1st place... broken parts add up...
 

AZOffroad

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Check out this first link, Built by legendary Manny Esquerra 7s this is a good deal. I really dont think you need to look any further than right hear. I would suggest you pick a dollor figure you want to spend, buy used but buy smart. Buy something that someone has spent a ton of dollars on in parts and has the truck some what dialed in (spring rates, shocks, ect...Mannys old truck has big dolloars in parts). Also hear are some o ther links to trucks mostly under 20K. I have a lot of good insite to racing and have been doing this for years both on my own and at the factory level you can email me at steve@smttec.com if you want more information from me...good luck
http://www.race-dezert.com/cgi-bin/trader/atl.cgi?ct=5&md=second&id=9819
http://www.race-dezert.com/cgi-bin/trader/atl.cgi?ct=5&md=second&id=9996
http://www.race-dezert.com/cgi-bin/trader/atl.cgi?ct=5&md=second&id=9961
http://www.race-dezert.com/cgi-bin/trader/atl.cgi?ct=5&md=second&id=9927
http://www.race-dezert.com/cgi-bin/trader/atl.cgi?ct=5&md=second&id=9919
http://www.race-dezert.com/cgi-bin/trader/atl.cgi?ct=5&md=second&id=9898
http://www.race-dezert.com/cgi-bin/trader/atl.cgi?ct=5&md=second&id=9877
http://www.race-dezert.com/cgi-bin/trader/atl.cgi?ct=5&md=second&id=9847


Thanks....great advice. Saved your email address.
 

Giant Geoff

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Wow! If that works for you for a prep expence list then that's great, but I don't see anywhere on your list about a few items that add up quick like:

tires & wheels
fiberglass, paint & bodywork
fuel cell & fuel related filters
lights (if you race any night races)
steering & steering box

I've seen your truck at races before and you guys go pretty good and having your shop to prep the truck in should count for something too. Don't mean for this to be taken the wrong way, but if that is all you have to do on your truck, to be as competive as you guys are, I think you might have left a few things out.

We prep our truck all in house and send out parts to be crack checked, transmission freshend, third member checked , and our preps add up to at least $5,000 per race. And when we did the Baja 1000 last year we spent over $10,000 just to get to the starting line.

I don’t sweet how people view my race program. I have just stumbled across THE golden combination. My truck is like a dirt bike, bring it home clean it and maybe clean the air filter.

I got 2 flats in 3 years.
Same fiberglass for 9 years.
Same fuel pump & filter for 6 years.
Traded 2 LED lights for a bolt in bed cage and $100. Kragen HID’s
Same steering box for 7 years.
I did hit a big ruin rut bent the radius arm in half and the cross over steering, came home cut & sleeved the radius arm put stock steering on with 4 hours of work whet out and ran a whole year and got 2 in points. Love the stock steering over the cross over by the way.
So will add to the list
“Have a diver arrear every 5 years”
 

13stout

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I don’t sweet how people view my race program. I have just stumbled across THE golden combination. My truck is like a dirt bike, bring it home clean it and maybe clean the air filter.

I got 2 flats in 3 years.
Same fiberglass for 9 years.
Same fuel pump & filter for 6 years.
Traded 2 LED lights for a bolt in bed cage and $100. Kragen HID’s
Same steering box for 7 years.
I did hit a big ruin rut bent the radius arm in half and the cross over steering, came home cut & sleeved the radius arm put stock steering on with 4 hours of work whet out and ran a whole year and got 2 in points. Love the stock steering over the cross over by the way.
So will add to the list
“Have a diver arrear every 5 years”


Same fiberglass for 9 years.:confused::confused::confused:

Dont forget the Clyde take out..... pass rear fender prerun 5 years ago LOL LOL LOL

your the best geoff

Clyde
 

SKISPEED

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Jeepspeed is fun but not as inexpensive as it once was. We are building a 145o.
 

Giant Geoff

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Ok, your right, 5 years ago was the last time I put glass on that think. Good times though Clyde.

What will keep you involved, for a long as possible? Is a balance between money and knowledge? Some start with a mix of the two, but hopefully we all grow in knowledge over time. I have always had to lean on the knowledge part because I was and still am broke, so I have been forced to really take full advantage in knowing how/what to do and most important, what never to do.

My combination for a successful race live is:
1) Build a truck starting with one that is completely stock and put your money only where it only gives you performance and safety. Leaving the motor stock with a big suspension will give you a long lasting truck.

If by doing something does not make it go faster, then don’t do it!!
For example, the only thing I replaced is the suspension, transmission, axle, fiberglass, seats and safety/tech stuff, everything else is stock. That’s right! I have the stock coolant running thru the stock radiator and stock hoses!! If it does not apply to the list above don’t change it.

2) I race in the smaller series to keep the racing cost and the maintenance down.

3) Learn to drive at full Kill with out harming the truck (may take 10-15 years to learn)

4) Only work on some thing after it brakes and take a DNF for that race. This will cut the prep cost and you learn how long parts will truly last. (A better driver will make stuff last longer) Just remember, if you’re at this stage in life, where all these things are under you belt it will be your success. If you are way before this level then the vehicle strength concerns that you have is a good thing, and your build that will take over 5 years to do, will mature you enough to become responsible for your own actions.


Disclaimer: I don’t recommend anyone use this advice until you have over 15 years in the desert and $10,000. in your pocket.
 

PALAPABOY

Bajalite Win Streak Killer
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Ok, your right, 5 years ago was the last time I put glass on that think. Good times though Clyde.

What will keep you involved, for a long as possible? Is a balance between money and knowledge? Some start with a mix of the two, but hopefully we all grow in knowledge over time. I have always had to lean on the knowledge part because I was and still am broke, so I have been forced to really take full advantage in knowing how/what to do and most important, what never to do.

My combination for a successful race live is:
1) Build a truck starting with one that is completely stock and put your money only where it only gives you performance and safety. Leaving the motor stock with a big suspension will give you a long lasting truck.

If by doing something does not make it go faster, then don’t do it!!
For example, the only thing I replaced is the suspension, transmission, axle, fiberglass, seats and safety/tech stuff, everything else is stock. That’s right! I have the stock coolant running thru the stock radiator and stock hoses!! If it does not apply to the list above don’t change it.

2) I race in the smaller series to keep the racing cost and the maintenance down.

3) Learn to drive at full Kill with out harming the truck (may take 10-15 years to learn)

4) Only work on some thing after it brakes and take a DNF for that race. This will cut the prep cost and you learn how long parts will truly last. (A better driver will make stuff last longer) Just remember, if you’re at this stage in life, where all these things are under you belt it will be your success. If you are way before this level then the vehicle strength concerns that you have is a good thing, and your build that will take over 5 years to do, will mature you enough to become responsible for your own actions.


Disclaimer: I don’t recommend anyone use this advice until you have over 15 years in the desert and $10,000. in your pocket.

Once again no disrespect but he asked about a relatively inexpensive way to race SCORE/BITD. Your number 2 above says it all. One Baja race or Vegas to Reno could put more miles on a vehicle than you do all year in a smaller series. Would you want to be at the starting line of the Baja 1K with some worn out tires and a transmission that wasn't freshly prepped, let alone axels that weren't crack checked? Prep for the bigger races is way different than the smaller series. There is a big difference going racing and running the vehicle wide open for 1000 miles versus cruising around waiting for everybody else to break.
 

mac1331

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Alot of guys forget how easy it is to go round and round in mdr and more and dont know what its like to do a point to point race where your chase truck have to work to find you if something does go wrong. building is the cheap part racing and prep is the part that empties the wallet fast
 
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