Which motor oil? (rob's KDQ for the day)

bin04

Well-Known Member
KDQ = Kinda Dumb Question- a recurring theme for me...

After a bunch of reading it is clear that everyone in VW-land has their own take on what oil should be used.

What is the common thinking in this neck of the woods?
 

MARXICO

Well-Known Member
Maxwell that is a very strange response and I am always willing to learn something new ,please explain your answer and experience with this product or are you just being a Dick?

Everyone has to start somewhere and at one time you were/are a rookie .When someone comes on this site looking for information and is humble enough to ask a question that may seem stupid to others the last thing he needs is the class idiot to be sarcastic and send them down a path that waste their time and money ….are you that guy ?

There are no stupid questions only stupid responses….give this guy a break isn’t this class supposed to be tight nit helping each other trying to grow the class, or are you the new standard that he should expect racing in this class?

Please clarify the nature of your post!


I would recommend a good quality 20/50 and change it every time you heat cycle your engine ( run it in a race or testing ) I would not buy expensive synthetics because they tend to leek more often and range from $10 -$15 a quart .


Synthetics are typically designed to go long distances between oil changes(Torco synthetic is good for 9000 mi between oil changes ) but this is not the case with racing you want to change your oil often so that takes away the initial purpose .
 
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Mike Depue

Well-Known Member
Maxwell that is a very strange response and I am always willing to learn something new ,please explain your answer and experience with this product or are you just being a Dick?

Everyone has to start somewhere and at one time you were/are a rookie .When someone comes on this site looking for information and is humble enough to ask a question that may seem stupid to others the last thing he needs is the class idiot to be sarcastic and send them down a path that waste their time and money ….are you that guy ?

There are no stupid questions only stupid responses….give this guy a break isn’t this class supposed to be tight nit helping each other trying to grow the class, or are you the new standard that he should expect racing in this class?

Please clarify the nature of your post!
Not so sure that was a stupid answer I know a lot of motorcycle racers that use rotella not sure why but it is cheeper and we do change our oil more often than required


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MARXICO

Well-Known Member
Like I said I am willing to learn something every day so I am waiting to hear the explination .

Currently My new cl1 engine ( 600hp) runs on Joe Gibbs break in oil followed by JG synthetic at $15 a quart . I have always used TORCO , but with the money I have invested I will do as the engine builder request . With my 9 car I run standard 20/50 with no problems.

I have been spending money on my race cars for 30 years and have listened to all kind of oil stories , so I am ready for 1 more .How about a response from a reputable engine builder .

Changing your oil every race is a wise decision, but the amount you use isn't that much so I wouldn't compromise on the quality to save a couple of bucks

What is the advantage using diesel / rotella ?

How many 9 cars are using this ,please explain the advantages
 

bin04

Well-Known Member
Rotella is high in sulphur/zinc, and has no friction modifiers. Sulphur = bad for catalytic converters (not a problem for us), but the zinc is pretty bearing friendly. Motorcycle racers use it for the wet clutches, because of the lack of friction modifiers.

The subaru community is in love with Rotella at the moment, and honestly i have used it in a few clapped out subaru motors because of the zinc.

It wasn't a stupid answer at all, just an unconventional one. Thanks Marxie for giving a more conventional answer.

And yeah, there definitely are stupid questions- nothing invites a flame war on a car forum more than an oil thread. Sorry 'bout that!
 

MARXICO

Well-Known Member
Diesel oil is more viscous, in other words heavier or thicker. This is needed because there's more space between rod and crankshaft bearings in a diesel engine. Thin oil would drain from these spaces. Obversely, putting too thick of oil in a gas engine will make it run hotter. Heavier viscosity is bad for a gas engine on startup and in cold weather. You would also loose compression of the oil, slowing its circulation into the engine

The level of detergents and other additives is higher for diesel, to combat the higher soot levels of diesel engines and take advantage of the difference in the catalytic converter in diesels. In a gas engine, diesel oil's greater concentration of detergent, or scrubbing agent, can remove manufacturer's deposits on the cylinder wall that help seal the combustion gases

I am here to learn something so please share your experinces
 

Mohr

Well-Known Member
Ok, I'll bite....Valvoline 20/50 racing goes in EVERYTHING I build. It has Zinc to act as a chemical barrier to protect the cast iron cam and lifters. It's not just a VW thing, every motor with a cast iron cam and lifters needs Zinc....or use your favorite brand of oil, and get the additive...
 

BigBlue&Goldie

Well-Known Member
I have been spending money on my race cars for 30 years and have listened to all kind of oil stories , so I am ready for 1 more .How about a response from a reputable engine builder .
Calm down dude, the Maxwell's are always willing to give solid advice.

Doug Maxwell (Maxwell Race Engines) builds a great VW/Class 9 motor. He built my VW and told me to run Rotella or Delo a while back. Just to confirm I wasn't losing my mind, I followed up with Ian a couple of weeks ago, and he verified what his dad said. If it's good enough for them, I'm willing to take their advice as they definitely aren't new to VW's. The motor Doug built for me runs like a top.

I chose to run Rotella with a some ZDDP splashed in it. Cheap and available at every place that sells oil.
 

Mohr

Well-Known Member
Synthetics are designed NOT to absorb heat......every synthetic I've tried has resulted in increased temps....on a cold day you could use one with the zinc additive to "free up" some ponies...
 

ACME

Well-Known Member
-Rotella and zinc based oils are good. I'd use them now if we ran a VW based car.

-Kendall is a very good oil and we used it in almost every VW we raced for the last few yrs and we never had an oil related issue while using it.

-No issue with Valvoline Racing and used it for years until we switched to Kendall (also used Valvoline Racing brand in the trans until we were told to run the expensive crap in the bigger cars).

-I personally don't care for synthetics in VW motors and never use synthetic oils during break in of a motor...

For the colder months we ran 10-30 and straight 30 wt and in the warmer 10/40 and 20/50

Ironically we have a friend who would buy the cheapest new oil he could find for his 12 car and never had an issue. His theory is he changed it every race and raced a lot so it never really mattered and his well known engine builder never noticed anything odd...
 

PaulW

Well-Known Member
Times are changing. Diesel oils have less Zinc these days. Blindly using Diesel oil because it was good years ago is high risk. It came about when diesels started using cats and they reduced the zinc. Last time I checked the web for oil analysis Valvoline racing had plenty of zinc and Rotella had cut the zinc in half. Turns out one can buy ACEA certified oil that is rigorously test for anti wear. Their higher their rating is good. Read the labels - trouble is that stuff is most all Synthetic, which is good in my mind, but others not so much.
There are other oil brands that still sell high zinc oil. I wont say which ones because I have not done the research for a couple of years and they change all the time. You want current data. Google is your friend.
And what I do for my vintage rig is plain old dino 10W30 and 5 Oz of ZDDP at each oil change. Makes it the same as the dino Valvoline 10W30 Racing.
My newer rigs all use Mobile1 full syn. My roller motor Bronco uses Delo 15w40 diesel oil which has moderate amount of zinc. It keeps the oil pressure good.
 

MARXICO

Well-Known Member
I have never heard of the Rotela being used and made no sense to me that is why my first post was so harsh, I did ask why and some responded .I learned about this today and hope more will share their experiences. Maxwell if you run this in your race motors and believe in it thanks for sharing and I would like to hear more about it .Everyone has their own Voodoo they live buy and the same is true with motor oil
 

Chris_Wilson

Well-Known Member
Was told years ago by Leon Patton to run Valvoline Racing oil, something about the additives and heat resistance.

I use Blackstone Labs for routine oil analysis and change oil every 1000 race miles.

Your choice of viscosity would be specific to your engine but at the high oil temps an air cooled 9 car engine runs I'm surprised to see such low viscosity recommendations in some of the posts.
 
I've run Rotela exclusively for the last 10 years. I use synthetic in my diesels and regular in most other vehicles including all the race cars.

P.s. I have never known anyone to have an engine failure because of oil or oil choice and all race motors get torn down or replaced long before any wear an oil choice would have any impact on.
 

T_Petersen

Well-Known Member
We have ran LE oil for a long time. 30wt motor oil and 90wt gear oil for trans. Both have been good to our cars.


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wheezy

"PRO PHOTO"
The new Lucas Oil racing stuff is as good as it gets.

Peace of mind. But ya, changing every race and rebuild every year its kinda overkill.

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