Why did i break a spindle?

bin04

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Raced last weekend in Colorado- did ok, no complaints, got third out of...i don't really know. It was a mixed 1600 class with everything from coilovers to bigger motors to, well, me.

Anyway, on the last lap, i sheared the driver's side spindle. Wheel with brake drum still attached went rolling off into the distance. Good times.

I know there are tons of variables and possibilities..heck, the spindle could have been tired to begin with- i dunno how long it has been on there. The reality of it though, is that i probably did something wrong, and wounded the front end.

Why did the spindle break vs. something else? I'd expect a ball joint to let go first. What's the likely thing i did wrong?
 
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Driver's side spindle weaker because of speedometer cable setup. Shoulda hit stuff with passenger side. ;)
 
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Did you fill the speedo hole with a rod? Are the beam centers cut and rotated if so how much? Do you have bump stops if so how are they set up? How stiff is the compression set on the front shocks? Did you hit anything on that side hard like a rock, tree, ditch or a washout or slide into anything on that side?
 

bin04

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Hitting stuff with the passenger side makes sense on sooo many different levels! I'll adjust my aim accordingly.

:-D
 

doug969

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Because Mary drove her VW bug to the store and hit every curb on the way there. Remember they are stock and off of cars with ???? miles. Like you said.. "aim accordingly" lol
 

y2kbaja

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Hitting stuff with the passenger side makes sense on sooo many different levels! I'll adjust my aim accordingly.

:-D
What if you're a single seater? lol.

I'm new to class 9 too and I was told not to hit anything uneven with the front end. Also to push the clutch in when the rear is off the ground. Very unlike the class 7 I used to drive.
 

y2kbaja

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DAre the beam centers cut and rotated if so how much? Do you have bump stops if so how are they set up? How stiff is the compression set on the front shocks?
I'll bite on this. I just set my front end up. Just before the ball joints bound top and bottom is where I set the bump and droop stops. It took 2 of us and a cheater bar to get the front arms on past the droop stop. Using stock springs ( I think split on top and solid on bottom). I can stand on the front bumper and the front doesn't move. If I jump on the front end I get some movement. This was before I put on the new Fox class 9 shocks. I'm not sure where or how much the centers are turned. I was told the beam was off a 2-seater.
 

doug969

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Sounds about right. Im a FAMF and can barley push them down. If your running VORRA up north its much smoother than Barstow so you may need to lower your air pressure in the shocks and or take some spring out. You will know when you go and drive it. You will need to valve the shocks to the car also. Yes try and avoid any side loads to the front and just lift off the gas in the air, don't worry about the clutch.
 
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bin04

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Definitely a buncha weird side-load hits and whatnot, but our Colorado course is pretty smooth, so nothing outrageous, truthfully. Apparently enough for the spindle, i guess..

I know my tire pressures were waaay too high- 25psi in the front. i am thinking more like 20 would have been appropriate. That doesn't help at all (The miserable understeer was swell too).

Doug is probably right- the vagaries of re-purposed artifacts. I'd like to add inexperience and too much right foot while chasing first to the equation, though.

Car came with a buncha spares so at least i have plenty of artifacts to break....
 

bin04

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since i started the oil thread, i'll ask another silly question:

rear tire pressure starting point for M/Ts? 25psi seemed...adequate, but the rear was overshadowed by the fronts being way off. I would assume slightly down from 25 is reasonable? What's the basic range?

Thanks, everyone for reading and answering my questions! You guys Know, and i want to Learn- I sincerely thank you!

(A side benefit might be increased traffic and conversation in the Class 9 forum. My dumb questions could even be helpful, or so id like to think)
 
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I'll bite on this. I just set my front end up. Just before the ball joints bound top and bottom is where I set the bump and droop stops. It took 2 of us and a cheater bar to get the front arms on past the droop stop. Using stock springs ( I think split on top and solid on bottom). I can stand on the front bumper and the front doesn't move. If I jump on the front end I get some movement. This was before I put on the new Fox class 9 shocks. I'm not sure where or how much the centers are turned. I was told the beam was off a 2-seater.
For the Snore area I would say that's way to stiff it tends to be a lot of choppy stuff with a few big hits when I was running in 9 my beam wasn't rotated at all on both my 2 seat and the single seat I could put the arms on by hand with no cheater bar and move the front end a little at the time I was only 130 lbs. When I would go to the area that More races it was more big holes and less choppy that would need a stiffer set up than I had. I'm not sure how the Vorra or Bore courses are.
 

doug969

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I ran yoks most of the time but did run the MT for a little at 32psi in the rear if i remember correctly. The yoks I ran at about 20 in the rear and fronts at 16.
 
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3 Amigos Racing

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Spindles.. Prob say it was tired to begin with..suggest mag check often or every race when chasing points and big finishes..tires we ran tubes and 31 lbs on yolks..no flats or bent wheels..
 
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Definitely a buncha weird side-load hits and whatnot, but our Colorado course is pretty smooth, so nothing outrageous, truthfully. Apparently enough for the spindle, i guess..

I know my tire pressures were waaay too high- 25psi in the front. i am thinking more like 20 would have been appropriate. That doesn't help at all (The miserable understeer was swell too).

Doug is probably right- the vagaries of re-purposed artifacts. I'd like to add inexperience and too much right foot while chasing first to the equation, though.

Car came with a buncha spares so at least i have plenty of artifacts to break....
I use to run 22psi on Super digger III in the rear and 18psi on the smoothies in the front on Yokohama tires I only ever got a flat 2 times one was driver error sliding sideways into a boulder the other was a nail in the tire.
 
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Spindles.. Prob say it was tired to begin with..suggest mag check often or every race when chasing points and big finishes..tires we ran tubes and 31 lbs on yolks..no flats or bent wheels..
I mag checked the spindles, arms and spring plates and changed the ball joints every race and replaced the front springs and rear bars once a year.
 

bin04

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cool. that's kinda what i thought about tire pressures. i'll fix the pressure in the fronts then see how the back feels. Thanks for a starting point.

balljoints? replaced 8 of 'em Monday night. Fun, but that's a set to put on, and a set of spares ready to go.

found a shop the other day that can mag stuff, so i am dropping off the spindles and arms next week..hopefully back in time for Vernal, but i am keeping a set just in case.

spindles, arms, spring plates..anything else?

I reaaaaallly want to avoid failures caused by lack of prep and general boneheadedness...
 

doug969

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To save time if you break one again try having the spares complete with brakes and drum all set. Will save you 20 min easy. Have spare grub screws and camber adjusters in each pit. Not real easy to find in the dez
 

Grease Weed

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Also mag your torsion fingers, bars, axles, and ring & pinion. I do theses about every two races.
 

Grease Weed

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Also your rear drums, if you haven't switch over to the aluminum insert. I've got a pile of failed type 3's with cracked centers.
 
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