wiring?

dezerts10

BANG!! BANG!!
About 4 or so months ago i moved my battery to the bed. i used jumper cables for that. i posted this so time ago and was told to use welding lead. At work we were demolishing a uniteruptable power supply and it had like 20 feet of welding lead so i took it. now i wanna redo my ghetto wiring job but am very confused about some stuff. from negative terminal to a good ground right? and positive terminal to what? plus what about all this stuff (see attachment) can someone help please? i beleive they are fuseable links or something like that they do have fuses in some of the plastic cases. can i just remove them?

thanks,
Gregg

<P ID="edit"><FONT SIZE=-1>Edited by 00s10prerunner on 01/26/03 05:33 PM (server time).</FONT></P>
 

hoeker

Well-Known Member
neg to good ground- yep. this will probably be the frame in the back of the truck. this is fine just make sure you have a good ground strap to the engine and cab. some factory ground cables include these.

pos to ? you should be able to follow the original cable and hook the new one to the same point. typically the starter solenoid. you make have a terminal block before the solenoid though.

fusable links?? unless your absolutely sure you eliminated whatever the link went to LEAVE THEM! they can be removed but are there for a reason. if the link was hooked right to the bat, i would move it and lengthen the wire after the link. i may be easier to create a nice terminal block where the bat used to be and leave the rest of the wiring stock. if you do this, make sure it can handle the amperage and is protected from shorts (a plastic case)

hope this helps

<A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.rosshoek.com>www.rosshoek.com</A>

"to be successful, you must first learn to disagree without being disagreeable."
 

ntsqd

Well-Known Member
I prefer to run the ground wire to the engine block, and then a ground strap from the block to the frame if one doesn't exist or is too small. If there is an existing ground strap that is deemed too small, remove it when you put a bigger strap. Ground Loops will make you crazier than poor grounds. Frames are not great conductors. Some work fine, others do not. When the current path has to cross several welded seams is what appears to cause the most trouble. I choose to avoid the issue from the start.
EFI'd engines are heavily reliant on grounds, don't skimp on them.

On the positive side, it may be a help to mount an isolated stud somewhere near where the battery used to be. Then you can run all of the stock wiring to that stud, and pull the pos cable up from the battery. You can find big isolated studs at marine hardware stores. If no luck locally, try westmarine.com

TS

I used swerve around my halucinations, now I drive right thru them.
 

hoeker

Well-Known Member
west marine is a great source for hard core wiring. boaters simply don't skimp when it comes to wiring. the problem with westmarine is cost. you get good stuff but pay for it. NTSQD is right though, you want to rid yourself of getoh wiring, do it right and forget it. if that means west marine, do it. i shop there regularly.

i disagree on the frame being a problem ground, but definately food for thought. EFI IS very, very dependant on good grounds though, there we agree.

<A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.rosshoek.com>www.rosshoek.com</A>

"to be successful, you must first learn to disagree without being disagreeable."
 

desertracer

Well-Known Member
We wired out whole 1 car with stuff from west marine. All the stuff they have there works really well plus the selection allows for many different combinations.

MDR #112
 

michael_loomis

Well-Known Member
haha west marine ....if in san diego you can go to Admiralty Marine (i worked there for 8 years) or san diego marine exchange , both are on/near shelter island. both have "electroguard" insulated studs. and the wire is cheaper at both places than west marine. marine wire is better and more expensive due to the fact that it is tinned copper(copper wire covered with tin coating before insulated) and it resists corrosion very well. i have completely wired 3 1600 cars and 1 class 5 in it :)
 

ntsqd

Well-Known Member
Yea, the $$$ West charges for their stuff is not the lowest for the same goods. That's why I mention them as a last resort. One decent online source is delcity.com

As to the frame not being a good conductor. I have seen a lot of vehicles wired using it as the ground conductor btwn the battery & whatever. Most of them were fine. The problem is that once in a while you''ll get one that isn't fine and there is no predicting what you've got until you've committed yourself to doing it a certain way. I'll take the known anytime when it comes to eliminating electrical gremlins. Choose your battles wisely.

TS

I used swerve around my halucinations, now I drive right thru them.
 

redline

Well-Known Member
if you dont really want to mess with the stock wiring that goes to the battery + you can use a junstion block in the engine compartment and run all you hot wires to it. You can get junction blocks at stereo shops that are real flashy and ussually spendy or get the low key ones from west marine for a pretty reasonable price. make sure that you get a block that can hold the amount of amps you need to run through it.
 

ACID_RAIN28

Well-Known Member
We have a contact at delcity wire and could get you hooked up.

"There are a lot of people hoping I fail. But I like that. I need to be hated."
 

Dave_G

Well-Known Member
Re:"I'll take the known anytime when it comes to eliminating electrical gremlins"

Yea, but where do you put the sacraficial anode?
lol. ;-)

Dave

"I started out with nothing and still have most of it left"
 

ntsqd

Well-Known Member
On the end of the flat braided strap that's long enough to touch the ground (most of the time), or I use a static bleed like some (all ?) aircraft.

lol

TS

I used swerve around my halucinations, now I drive right thru them.
 

Dave_G

Well-Known Member
Re: "I use a static bleed like some (all ?) aircraft."

You know, now that you mention that I've suddenly realized my airplane doesn't have any static wicks on the control surfaces. My avionics work just fine so I guess I've not really noticed any problems.

Dave

"I started out with nothing and still have most of it left"
 
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