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XX tech aand parts thread

43mod

Well-Known Member
I figured instead of plugging up the Talon thread w more XX axle talk I would start this. It seems pretty clear that xx tech and info is anything but clear. Speed videos are a help in an infomercial way.
So first trip in 0 mile unit and 350 mile unit xx's to pre run b1k was a belt temp,axle,and trans seal disaster . trans seal rig going back to dealer in Oregon for a discussion .
My rig that ate boots and cvs in short order is going to get new axles and hand old ones back to the dealer to see what they do. Looking at Speeds stock double plunging axle I am not clear if it is $500 each or a pair ,does anyone know ? the new OEM 2502-784 center plunging looks pretty good. To be clear my increase in ride height in the rear could have accelerated the cv issue. The other rig had no axle issues at stock height but beat the bottom of frame up a good bit in exchange.
By pulling the air box(along w its filter ) and duct taping on a plastic drain pan it brought the belt temp down a ton. It is no where near Baja 500 prerun able though. More work to do.
Last issue for today my 2019 drivers seat appears to be attached to the slider frame by four iddy biddy screws if the factory puts them in, which they did not. four screws and two hose clamps later it still is not well secured . The seats were not bad .
now back to work on race and prerun rigs. Fire away w your thoughts and maybe we can all be better off.
 

jon coleman

Well-Known Member
are belts atatched Before or After weenie seat mounts?, crucial safty tip on fabing, Never attach belts on seat mount After seat to cage mount, Always attach belts to Cage structure, ive seen some scary belt mounting..my next rig is looking more like xx, just gonna be patient for right deal
 

NIKAL

Well-Known Member
R
I figured instead of plugging up the Talon thread w more XX axle talk I would start this. It seems pretty clear that xx tech and info is anything but clear. Speed videos are a help in an infomercial way.
So first trip in 0 mile unit and 350 mile unit xx's to pre run b1k was a belt temp,axle,and trans seal disaster . trans seal rig going back to dealer in Oregon for a discussion .
My rig that ate boots and cvs in short order is going to get new axles and hand old ones back to the dealer to see what they do. Looking at Speeds stock double plunging axle I am not clear if it is $500 each or a pair ,does anyone know ? the new OEM 2502-784 center plunging looks pretty good. To be clear my increase in ride height in the rear could have accelerated the cv issue. The other rig had no axle issues at stock height but beat the bottom of frame up a good bit in exchange.
By pulling the air box(along w its filter ) and duct taping on a plastic drain pan it brought the belt temp down a ton. It is no where near Baja 500 prerun able though. More work to do.
Last issue for today my 2019 drivers seat appears to be attached to the slider frame by four iddy biddy screws if the factory puts them in, which they did not. four screws and two hose clamps later it still is not well secured . The seats were not bad .
now back to work on race and prerun rigs. Fire away w your thoughts and maybe we can all be better off.
Robby’s Speed Axle assembly’s are $1000 for the pair, so $500 each assembly. Seems like a lot, but try buying a set of 4 race prepped 930 cv’s, good boots, flanges, cv bolts and a pair of 300m axles for a 1600 car, and Robby’s axle kits seems reasonable if not cheap.

The 2020 center plunge axle might work better then the previous plunging axle, but with the amount a debris from the front tires that hits & sand blasts the axles, I don’t see how that plunge boot is going to last, thus causing axle bind and eventually failure.

Trans axle seals seem to be common as several others have had the same issue when running hard. I’d like to know how it’s failing? Does it look fine, but leak? Maybe pressure pushing it out? Does it look like the axle splines are hitting it and damaging it? It also seems to be more related to running stock axles. Read where someone mentioned after putting the Speed axles in they had no more seal issues. Also wonder if it’s a installation issue from the factory as it’s random, one guy has issues, another does not.

Regarding the clutching & belt temps. I’m not sure what the root cause is? Air flow ducting, actual clutching issues or?? I do not like Robby’s hack attempt to fix some of the issues by cutting a hole in the cover and bolting a spall fan in the cover. Seems like a temp fix with long term failure. I would call Airdam Clutch’s as I know he has work on many XX clutches and does clutches for several Can Am & Polaris UTV race teams. Maybe he has some answers? Or call Team Industries as the built the clutches & trans. They also build Polaris’s clutches and my understanding was the XX was an upgraded version of a Polaris style clutch. Do you have a picture of your duct tape drain pan duct? I’d like to see what you did to reduce the temp? Also was this only one car, or were both seeing belt temp issues?
 
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RedRide

Well-Known Member
I am baffled as to why anyone would buy a utv with so many basic issues? You shouldn’t have to buy aftermarket parts to achieve standard vehicle function.
 

43mod

Well-Known Member
Glad you can be a help red ride, there are other threads for debates 😊. Nikal no pic now of super scoop. Imagine plastic , duct tape and a bungi cord and you will be on track. I am very comfortable w the fan addition and will be working towards more air going in. The top inlet elbow below the intake is super restrictive. Clutching i dont know a thing about but shall be learning.
 

Total Loss

Well-Known Member
My 784 axles work VERY NICE so far- only 50 miles on them though.
Plenty of leftover slip in the center yoke full droop and full compress.
450 delivered for the pair.
I like the fact they took all the plunge out of the cv's...should be less heat also.
 

Attachments

Total Loss

Well-Known Member
Nikal,

You can easily run a rock guard on the swingarm for the center boot if you want.
I may fab one up here soon.
 

Total Loss

Well-Known Member
Hey 43.

Check the rear diff vent...Built4Baja gave me a tip to check that...they shove the vent tube up into the frame rail and mine was kinked...builds pressure in the diff- sometimes causing seal failure.
 

Sdracer

Well-Known Member
R

Robby’s Speed Axle assembly’s are $1000 for the pair, so $500 each assembly. Seems like a lot, but try buying a set of 4 race prepped 930 cv’s, good boots, flanges, cv bolts and a pair of 300m axles for a 1600 car, and Robby’s axle kits seems reasonable if not cheap.

The 2020 center plunge axle might work better then the previous plunging axle, but with the amount a debris from the front tires that hits & sand blasts the axles, I don’t see how that plunge boot is going to last, thus causing axle bind and eventually failure.

Trans axle seals seem to be common as several others have had the same issue when running hard. I’d like to know how it’s failing? Does it look fine, but leak? Maybe pressure pushing it out? Does it look like the axle splines are hitting it and damaging it? It also seems to be more related to running stock axles. Read where someone mentioned after putting the Speed axles in they had no more seal issues. Also wonder if it’s a installation issue from the factory as it’s random, one guy has issues, another does not.

Regarding the clutching & belt temps. I’m not sure what the root cause is? Air flow ducting, actual clutching issues or?? I do not like Robby’s hack attempt to fix some of the issues by cutting a hole in the cover and bolting a spall fan in the cover. Seems like a temp fix with long term failure. I would call Airdam Clutch’s as I know he has work on many XX clutches and does clutches for several Can Am & Polaris UTV race teams. Maybe he has some answers? Or call Team Industries as the built the clutches & trans. They also build Polaris’s clutches and my understanding was the XX was an upgraded version of a Polaris style clutch. Do you have a picture of your duct tape drain pan duct? I’d like to see what you did to reduce the temp? Also was this only one car, or were both seeing belt temp issues?

My leaky rear seal looked perfect. It only leaked on the passenger side and on the OD of the seal to the diff housing. I strongly believe that high pressure caused the failure. This was the longest period of time with out a "break" that my car had been driven at race speeds. The pressure build up in the diff is what I want to believe blew my seal.

Also, as for CVT and belts I am a 100% believer that belt issues are caused by the driver, not the belt. I've driven the piss out of my car and have yet to have a belt failure in 1600 miles. 1100 miles on the original belt and 500 miles being race miles. Just like the 5-1600 cars.....carrying momentum and trying to roll into and out of the throttle with out creating too much heat. Also letting it breath and rolling out of the throttle after being wideopen for a bit. like you do an aircooled VW engine.
 

43mod

Well-Known Member
that looks well protected . a little mud flap at the front of the trailing arm cant hurt either. 2 sets of 2502-784 axles on the way. $420 set on ebay delivered. the dealer that I have bought two units from quoted me the good guy deal of $258 each delivered ! Along w taking the ride height back down a bit we shall see how they work. Belt temp way worse under constant load than on and off throttle. 50mph Hwy miles actually being the hottest,more to learn here but it shall come around.
 

Nessy

Well-Known Member
that looks well protected . a little mud flap at the front of the trailing arm cant hurt either. 2 sets of 2502-784 axles on the way. $420 set on ebay delivered. the dealer that I have bought two units from quoted me the good guy deal of $258 each delivered ! Along w taking the ride height back down a bit we shall see how they work. Belt temp way worse under constant load than on and off throttle. 50mph Hwy miles actually being the hottest,more to learn here but it shall come around.
Can you post a pic of your belt temp sensor and how you mounted it? Is it an infrared or just a sensor you put in the belt exhaust? 800 plus pretty hard miles on my 18 and no issues at all yet. I figured the inner boots would have torn by now but I haven't run it hard for a long period of time yet.
 

sand shark

Active Member
Saw the Speedcats in Glamis this weekend. The Speed axles are pretty nice set up. Good size CVs too. The Speed person explained the axle set up as well as the issues the Wildcat XX was having with the rear axles.

As to belt temps - I would be looking at clutch alignment to make sure it is dead on. Team Clutches can be belt eaters if the alignment is off. It will create a lot of heat. From what I remember the Widcat XX had pretty good ducting into the clutch housing and the cluthc itself moves lots of air.

You might want to call Airdam Clutches - Adam Harvey. He is the guru of UTV clutching and does a majority of the desert race UTVs clutches. Can be a pain in the ass to get a hold of, but worth the headache.
 

43mod

Well-Known Member
I would be looking at clutch alignment to make sure it is dead on. Team Clutches can be belt eaters if the alignment is off
That is good input. Thank you. I think I will machine a couple of hubs to slide on the shafts to work with. Looks like a pain to change the alignment but would be worth it if its the issue.
 

slvrbullet

Well-Known Member
The new 784 axles are good I have a few hundred race miles on them and have ran through bushes, small trees etc and have not ripped the boots. The new axles should also fix the seal leaks. That seal gets hammered by the GEN 1-2 axles. I have over 600 race miles on the same belt but I do use the clutch alignment tool from Speedwerx. I'm also installing a fan on the belt cover to move some air out of the housing as I have got it warm a few times.
 

Total Loss

Well-Known Member
The new 784 axles are good I have a few hundred race miles on them and have ran through bushes, small trees etc and have not ripped the boots. The new axles should also fix the seal leaks. That seal gets hammered by the GEN 1-2 axles. I have over 600 race miles on the same belt but I do use the clutch alignment tool from Speedwerx. I'm also installing a fan on the belt cover to move some air out of the housing as I have got it warm a few times.
I ran straight over a large truck size bush at about 50 last time out...no damages to front or rear boots...just some front scratches and my ego....no steering in the air.
 

Sdracer

Well-Known Member
The new 784 axles are good I have a few hundred race miles on them and have ran through bushes, small trees etc and have not ripped the boots. The new axles should also fix the seal leaks. That seal gets hammered by the GEN 1-2 axles. I have over 600 race miles on the same belt but I do use the clutch alignment tool from Speedwerx. I'm also installing a fan on the belt cover to move some air out of the housing as I have got it warm a few times.
How are you contributing seal issues to being associated with axle plunge? or the axles at all?
 

Total Loss

Well-Known Member
How are you contributing seal issues to being associated with axle plunge? or the axles at all?
Not sure if they do...There may have been a bad batch of them...or guys were running wide open for a period of time causing pressure to build in the rear diff. Or the bearing on the ring gear is not tight.
I thought my passenger side was going...turned out to be cv grease being forced out through the center slide pin when it got extremely hot. Blew around the diff housing. It was black and thicker than the reddish rear end synthetic fluid.
 
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