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XX tech aand parts thread

slvrbullet

Well-Known Member
On the speed prepped cars...
1.water fried electrical.
2 Blown rear Transaxle
3. Rolled race car.
4. Blown water pump.

Bulloch/Hustead had their special Speed billet rack strip out in a high speed whoops section, never hit anything. Apparently they would have had better luck with a braced OEM rack.

The cars showed up to Baja un-prepped and not ready, no one got test/seat time, I know one of his cars failed tech multiple times.
 

NIKAL

Well-Known Member
SDracer, besides SpeedSXS axle & cv’s, bigger tires and shock tuning. What else have you done to improve your XX? Have you had any other issues?

Has anyone been able to keep the hot air from coming into the cab from under the dash area? A guy I spoke to out at Superstition said the heat was his biggest complaint. (And soft rear suspension) If it’s 80 + degrees outside, it’s almost unbearable to drive around with the heat coming in under the dash, and steering wheel opening. He said he thought his XP was hot, but the XX heat was at another level. His wife hates it.
 

Total Loss

Well-Known Member
I stuffed foam in the steering column gap and used adhesive backed insulation on the underside of the center tunnel...also covered the shifter hole and cut a small slice so the shaft can move. Helped tremendously.
Fans come on early also with the reflash- like 180= car runs cooler.

Those items make a big difference...Only real thing left to do would be to insulate the front cowl panel.
 

Nessy

Well-Known Member
I live in Arizona and it does get warm but IMO it isn't that bad so I haven't messed with it yet.
 

afortune46

Well-Known Member
SDracer, besides SpeedSXS axle & cv’s, bigger tires and shock tuning. What else have you done to improve your XX? Have you had any other issues?

Has anyone been able to keep the hot air from coming into the cab from under the dash area? A guy I spoke to out at Superstition said the heat was his biggest complaint. (And soft rear suspension) If it’s 80 + degrees outside, it’s almost unbearable to drive around with the heat coming in under the dash, and steering wheel opening. He said he thought his XP was hot, but the XX heat was at another level. His wife hates it.
Tell him to take off his windsheild/rear panel. when they change the airflow of the cab it turns it into an oven.

FWIW we ran all year on gen 1 axles on the 54 lucas oil shortcourse car. went through 3 sets of transaxle cases though. Aligned every time the car hit the track using the speedwerx tool.
 

NIKAL

Well-Known Member
Tell him to take off his windsheild/rear panel. when they change the airflow of the cab it turns it into an oven.

FWIW we ran all year on gen 1 axles on the 54 lucas oil shortcourse car. went through 3 sets of transaxle cases though. Aligned every time the car hit the track using the speedwerx tool.
When speaking to the guy about the heat, his car did not have any type of windshield or rear window. Can’t remember if he even had a roof panel on it?

What’s causing the motor & trans to become mid-aligned to where you had to check it each time it went out? That’s a huge issue and could explain a lot of the problems.
 

Nessy

Well-Known Member
When speaking to the guy about the heat, his car did not have any type of windshield or rear window. Can’t remember if he even had a roof panel on it?

What’s causing the motor & trans to become mid-aligned to where you had to check it each time it went out? That’s a huge issue and could explain a lot of the problems.
I believe he is talking about the alignment tool for the axles although I believe they do sell a alignment tool for the clutches.
 

afortune46

Well-Known Member
When speaking to the guy about the heat, his car did not have any type of windshield or rear window. Can’t remember if he even had a roof panel on it?

What’s causing the motor & trans to become mid-aligned to where you had to check it each time it went out? That’s a huge issue and could explain a lot of the problems.
Thats unusual with no windshield or back panel - usually those are the main culprits to the oven factor.

We checked the axles as a precautionary measure - you get one practice before you have to put your money where your mouth is - having an axle failure really isn't an option. IMO the problem with the axles and the trans case is that the entire motor/trans is rubber mounted. There is not enough tension there to stop it from torque loading on the driveline and letting the engine/trans twist and shove the trans one way or another that would allow the axles to come out of alignment. The engine and trans literally can float any which way and when you're talking 1/16" of tolerance on axle alignment - that is NOTHING compared to how much float you're getting out of the rear end - we've seen the trans mounts collapsed in the webbing and its 3/16-1/4" air gap in the web. Tolerance stackup in this instance is an oversight and when the axle needs to plunge in and cant - the case becomes the failure point. and the side opposite will pull out.

I believe he is talking about the alignment tool for the axles although I believe they do sell a alignment tool for the clutches.
Spot on.
 

Nessy

Well-Known Member
Thats unusual with no windshield or back panel - usually those are the main culprits to the oven factor.

We checked the axles as a precautionary measure - you get one practice before you have to put your money where your mouth is - having an axle failure really isn't an option. IMO the problem with the axles and the trans case is that the entire motor/trans is rubber mounted. There is not enough tension there to stop it from torque loading on the driveline and letting the engine/trans twist and shove the trans one way or another that would allow the axles to come out of alignment. The engine and trans literally can float any which way and when you're talking 1/16" of tolerance on axle alignment - that is NOTHING compared to how much float you're getting out of the rear end - we've seen the trans mounts collapsed in the webbing and its 3/16-1/4" air gap in the web. Tolerance stackup in this instance is an oversight and when the axle needs to plunge in and cant - the case becomes the failure point. and the side opposite will pull out.



Spot on.
What are your thoughts on the solid mounts that are being produced now and does Speedwerks have anything in the works?
 

43mod

Well-Known Member
a fortune this is exactly why I started this thread. Thanks for the good feedback. I am going to really look into my XXs mounting. I am thinking a lateral swedge tube /hiem ends to limit movement and still let it move up /down and forward/ back.
 

Sdracer

Well-Known Member
SDracer, besides SpeedSXS axle & cv’s, bigger tires and shock tuning. What else have you done to improve your XX? Have you had any other issues?

Has anyone been able to keep the hot air from coming into the cab from under the dash area? A guy I spoke to out at Superstition said the heat was his biggest complaint. (And soft rear suspension) If it’s 80 + degrees outside, it’s almost unbearable to drive around with the heat coming in under the dash, and steering wheel opening. He said he thought his XP was hot, but the XX heat was at another level. His wife hates it.
My XX upgrade list is huge. I've done so many little things that I learned with RG and at Dakar. I'll have to walk around the car and put a list together of all the fab and improvements I've made to my car. I do have the Ron Davis radiator and a V1 steering rack that I designed with RG before he went V2 and offered it for sale at $2500. Due to those changes I doubt I am legal in any stock racing classes.

As for issues, I've only had stock CV issues that we've all had. The one seal going out in the rear transaxle. My front end was cracking.pulling apart at the UCA forward most mounts....re-welded and plated that all up. The rear rubber trans mounts mounts go to crap after about 750 miles. I replaced those before NORRA and have another set on the way just to have. Thinking about drawing up my own solution and manufacturing some. We will see.

As for the cab heat, I plan to insulate the plastic center tunnel with the good heat shield products stuff. I also made a template to cut out of the front hood/inboard fenders. I attached photos below. It definitely helped reduce temps inside the cab by allowing the hot air from the radiator and hoses to escape.

IMG_0354.jpg
IMG_0355.PNG
 

slvrbullet

Well-Known Member
We checked the axles as a precautionary measure - you get one practice before you have to put your money where your mouth is - having an axle failure really isn't an option. IMO the problem with the axles and the trans case is that the entire motor/trans is rubber mounted. There is not enough tension there to stop it from torque loading on the driveline and letting the engine/trans twist and shove the trans one way or another that would allow the axles to come out of alignment. The engine and trans literally can float any which way and when you're talking 1/16" of tolerance on axle alignment - that is NOTHING compared to how much float you're getting out of the rear end - we've seen the trans mounts collapsed in the webbing and its 3/16-1/4" air gap in the web. Tolerance stackup in this instance is an oversight and when the axle needs to plunge in and cant - the case becomes the failure point. and the side opposite will pull out.
Alex, Do you think solid front and rear engine mounts are the way to go?
 

afortune46

Well-Known Member
What are your thoughts on the solid mounts that are being produced now and does Speedwerks have anything in the works?
I don't know that speedwerx currently has anything in development , but I've taken a back seat to alot of that in the past year too.

a fortune this is exactly why I started this thread. Thanks for the good feedback. I am going to really look into my XXs mounting. I am thinking a lateral swedge tube /hiem ends to limit movement and still let it move up /down and forward/ back.
Even a basic snubber to limit how far it would move (similar to what engine plates on snowmobiles use to restrict movement) would be ideal.

Alex, Do you think solid front and rear engine mounts are the way to go?
I think front I would leave rubber to reduce harmonics but in the trans area I would go rigid. I haven't ran the rigid mounts myself but with the movement seen in the rear and the failures that occur that would explain alot.
 

Total Loss

Well-Known Member
On my old Rzr, I had steel cups that would sleeve the rubber mounts with curved edges to limit the torsional loads on the vulcanized rubber. They worked great...only a slight amount of additional vibrations and left the movement to a minimum. My trans case would strike the lower frame section at times before- after - never.
 
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