• Forum membership has its advantages....

XX tech aand parts thread

fastcash

Well-Known Member
Just found out over the weekend that the front input flange is weak. Textron makes it a shear point for the front.
Only a $37 part but a biotch to change..
Luckily it was my brother's car- not mine. Why I like 2wd.
Total Loss,
Is the new flange any different/stronger? How did your brother break it? Its the sh-t's to change.
Chris
 

Total Loss

Well-Known Member
Total Loss,
Is the new flange any different/stronger? How did your brother break it? Its the sh-t's to change.
Chris
He just ordered one...not sure on the steel gauge of the new one but I would guess it would be the same part.
He said he loosened the front diff and pulled the driveshaft carrier bearing and was able to wrangle it out.
2 hr job to remove- he is waiting for the part.

Designed to sheer under load as a failsafe for the front driveline as per Textron.
Actually he ordered 2- which I advised him to do for a spare.

He was not sure how he broke it- probably at Ocotillo running 4wd with 32's. Just didn't know it. He unloaded at Glamis and said he felt like he did not have 4wd- he did not after further review. Running 30" ribs at Glamis -I wouldn't think that would do it...unless he came down off a jump hard on the throttle.
 

fastcash

Well-Known Member
He just ordered one...not sure on the steel gauge of the new one but I would guess it would be the same part.
He said he loosened the front diff and pulled the driveshaft carrier bearing and was able to wrangle it out.
2 hr job to remove- he is waiting for the part.

Designed to sheer under load as a failsafe for the front driveline as per Textron.
Actually he ordered 2- which I advised him to do for a spare.

He was not sure how he broke it- probably at Ocotillo running 4wd with 32's. Just didn't know it. He unloaded at Glamis and said he felt like he did not have 4wd- he did not after further review. Running 30" ribs at Glamis -I wouldn't think that would do it...unless he came down off a jump hard on the throttle.
Total Loss,

Looked at our flange today, can see the obvious weak link. We talked with the nice folks at Brute Performance
and they suggested to just weld the flange up to strengthen it. Seems like a good idea.

Thanks for the feedback, Chris
 

NIKAL

Well-Known Member
Total Loss,

Looked at our flange today, can see the obvious weak link. We talked with the nice folks at Brute Performance
and they suggested to just weld the flange up to strengthen it. Seems like a good idea.

Thanks for the feedback, Chris
So if you weld it to make it stronger, what’s the next weak link down the line? Is it a $40 part and as easy to replace? How many are breaking this part? Has Robby & the Speed crew seen this same failure? Maybe call Weddle and see if they have seen this, or what this part is saving internally in the front diff.
 

fastcash

Well-Known Member
So if you weld it to make it stronger, what’s the next weak link down the line? Is it a $40 part and as easy to replace? How many are breaking this part? Has Robby & the Speed crew seen this same failure? Maybe call Weddle and see if they have seen this, or what this part is saving internally in the front diff.
Nikal,
Your thoughts are exactly what we are thinking. When you see the built-in fuse in the flange you think " wow how does it last at all".
Its always the problem of finding the next weak link in our sport. There have been many reports of broken flanges on
the forums, at our dealership, and even with the Brute Performance people. We haven't talked with Todd at Speed yet,
but we have the frt. diff at Weddle now and will get their opinion.
To me the flange is a part that will last longer with proper throttle application while jumping, as a rule we try to drive
with the wheels on the ground, but its seems a difficult task while off-road racing!
The drive flange is very difficult/time consuming to replace, not something we want to do during a race. So ultimately
with no other option att we will probably weld the flange up and hope for the best, kinda like every other part
on our "UTV race car".
Chris
 

Total Loss

Well-Known Member
2 hours out...probably 2.5-3 back in. My brother toyed with the idea of spot welding the new one...I cautioned him against it. We are recreational riders (albeit pretty hard) and not racing them.
Why I am sticking with my 30's also. And my throttle control is better than my brothers...I have a lot more seat time in sport SxS's.

He has also broken an axle- I have not.
If you break the flange in a race, I would run 2wd and slow down a bit....should keep the rear CV's in check. Do a heat gun check on them at every pit.
 

Total Loss

Well-Known Member
Total Loss,

Looked at our flange today, can see the obvious weak link. We talked with the nice folks at Brute Performance
and they suggested to just weld the flange up to strengthen it. Seems like a good idea.

Thanks for the feedback, Chris
Maybe 4 spot welds. That might be the trick....or not...maybe?
 

fastcash

Well-Known Member
2 hours out...probably 2.5-3 back in. My brother toyed with the idea of spot welding the new one...I cautioned him against it. We are recreational riders (albeit pretty hard) and not racing them.
Why I am sticking with my 30's also. And my throttle control is better than my brothers...I have a lot more seat time in sport SxS's.

He has also broken an axle- I have not.
If you break the flange in a race, I would run 2wd and slow down a bit....should keep the rear CV's in check. Do a heat gun check on them at every pit.
Total Loss,
Your absolutely right, keeping any race car going is all about how you drive it, especially with a UTV.
Our fix every problem before it happens, comes from wanting to never put a wrench on the car
during the race. Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't (LOL).
Driving the XX at WFO all day long is a real challenge, especially for the 5 days of the Norra 1000.
During last years Norra we broke 7 axles/boots, our sister car, with noob drivers broke 3 boots!!!
We are always learning new stuff.
Chris
 

Total Loss

Well-Known Member
Total Loss,
Your absolutely right, keeping any race car going is all about how you drive it, especially with a UTV.
Our fix every problem before it happens, comes from wanting to never put a wrench on the car
during the race. Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't (LOL).
Driving the XX at WFO all day long is a real challenge, especially for the 5 days of the Norra 1000.
During last years Norra we broke 7 axles/boots, our sister car, with noob drivers broke 3 boots!!!
We are always learning new stuff.
Chris
One thing I learned about racing in Baja...throw your plan out the window after the green flag drops...LOL.
My motto was (especially on the motos) was, "Don't crash...don't break...good day".

Drive/ride at 80%-90% most of the time...pass others that don't.
 

fastcash

Well-Known Member
So if you weld it to make it stronger, what’s the next weak link down the line? Is it a $40 part and as easy to replace? How many are breaking this part? Has Robby & the Speed crew seen this same failure? Maybe call Weddle and see if they have seen this, or what this part is saving internally in the front diff.
NIKAL, Total Loss,
After talking with several people, the consensus (100%) was to weld up the drive flange. Eliminate the known weak
link was the general train of thought.
We are still striving to get to 80%, we're old and hope to speed up before we stop racing!!
Chris
 

43mod

Well-Known Member
Fc hows this for additional sub frame mounting ? My assumption was the boss my finger is pointing at had some form of alignment pin into the lower sub frame. I was wrong. It is just two little bolts. Clearly needed some love.
 

Attachments

fastcash

Well-Known Member
Fc hows this for additional sub frame mounting ? My assumption was the boss my finger is pointing at had some form of alignment pin into the lower sub frame. I was wrong. It is just two little bolts. Clearly needed some love.
43mod,
Looks good pal. Probably better than our version. This
Is what we ended up with.
Chris20200218_164112.jpg20200218_163952.jpg20200218_163949.jpg
 

43mod

Well-Known Member
Just reread the entire thread.
Things learned. The speed rack end caps/boot bosses were not concentric and the tie rod adapters were hitting the edge. Thusly they were acting as the steering travel stop. I brought this up to speed and they made new units and shipped to me. You guys should check yours both mine were the same.
 

43mod

Well-Known Member
Now for questions.
race car w speed 77 kit going together. What are the thoughts on limit straps f and rear ?
anyone w good wiring and tech skills really good w these units ? I would really like to clean up/ shorten the stock harness but dont want to create gremlins. I would love to add some stand alone gauges as well or some better / bigger display.
Any thoughts on brake upgrades ? I would like to be able to run harder in the tight stuff w out boiling the brake fluid.
slowing down is not an option. Trying not to let age and poor eyesight catch up.
 

novaman64

Well-Known Member
Now for questions.
race car w speed 77 kit going together. What are the thoughts on limit straps f and rear ?
anyone w good wiring and tech skills really good w these units ? I would really like to clean up/ shorten the stock harness but dont want to create gremlins. I would love to add some stand alone gauges as well or some better / bigger display.
Any thoughts on brake upgrades ? I would like to be able to run harder in the tight stuff w out boiling the brake fluid.
slowing down is not an option. Trying not to let age and poor eyesight catch up.
Havent heard about the performance of them, but Trinity Racing is making a "big brake" upgrade kit...

In terms of gauges.. Maybe look at AiM... GPS speed, belt temp, and can add in whatever else (I would do oil and water temp)....
 

Total Loss

Well-Known Member
In terms of gauges.. Maybe look at AiM... GPS speed, belt temp, and can add in whatever else (I would do oil and water temp)....
[/QUOTE]

Water temp is on the main gauge cluster.
What you need to do is bring up the bar graph for "water temp" and I believe you hold down the opposite button for a few seconds and the numerical indicator comes up below the graph. Not sure why Textron did not make that the default setting.

I am going to do an oil pressure gauge.
 
Top