XX tech and parts thread

43mod

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cough cough sure glad I already have one for the race car..........
Wish that PSC rack had a couple of extra mounting bosses on it.
 

novaman64

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PSC is a brand, I believe it stands for Performance Steering Components. They are pretty big in the offroad community.

Here is the box they designed for the XX:
 

Nessy

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PSC is a brand, I believe it stands for Performance Steering Components. They are pretty big in the offroad community.

Here is the box they designed for the XX:
Any feed back on these yet?
 

novaman64

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One guy racing the VORRA series has been running it. Didnt destroy it, and I believe its still tight so... Not sure of anybody racing in SCORE/BITD that has really flogged on them to say if they are battle proven or not.
 

novaman64

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Water pump "fix" has been released. $499

Dasa also just revised theirs again as well. $249




From Speed SxS:

waterpump_kit_wildcatxx_1024x1024.jpg


Speed SXS Billet Water Pump Kit for the Wildcat XX and Tracker XTR 1000. Speed has spent the past year developing a replacement water pump for the YXZ Motor that is in the Wildcat XX and Tracker XTR 1000. The stock water pump is plastic and due to the sustained RPM (In excess of 8000), the torque the shaft is seeing from the water as well as the additional heat, we have had many engine failures. These failures eventually cause overheating and damaging the motor and sometime catastrophic loss.

Speed's water pump kit is much different than anything on the market today. It includes, the impeller, gear, out put shaft, seals, and bearing. It takes all this to properly replace your water pump impeller. Don't get stranded in the desert from a failed pump, or in your shop because you didn't have everything needed to put your water pump back together.

Our billet shaft no longer has set screw holes that were a weak point and causing the shaft to snap. We have also machined the surface of our impeller to avoid any cavitation that can occur from imperfections in the surface.

We are constantly looking for ways to make your experience and weekends better. This won't make you any faster, but it will make you feel more confident when driving your car.
 

RDS-Scatman

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I did the solid mounts from Brute Force.
The stock units were on backorder, so I get them to make a trip or two. Once my stock units showed up we went back to them. The solids caused way to much vibration for the passenger seat, no noticeable difference anywhere else. Only put about 150-200 miles on them. I still have stock seats maybe aftermarket seats wouldn't have had the issue, since the stock seat mounts right up to the bar with the rubber mount.
 

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slvrbullet

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Kolton Hustead is now running the PSC rack. He was running the Speedsxs rack. I know a few guys running them without issue. I and a few other racers are running the stock boxes that are double sheared without issue. If you upgrade the tie rods I would upgrade the rack. Food for thought I bent a lower arm from a side load and the tie rods and box are fine.

I did the solid mounts from Brute Force.
The stock units were on backorder, so I get them to make a trip or two. Once my stock units showed up we went back to them. The solids caused way to much vibration for the passenger seat, no noticeable difference anywhere else. Only put about 150-200 miles on them. I still have stock seats maybe aftermarket seats wouldn't have had the issue, since the stock seat mounts right up to the bar with the rubber mount.

Whats your thoughts on the solid mounts? I was thinking of running them on the transaxle and leaving the motor mounts stock rubber. A solid mount does concern me on a transaxle aluminum case, but blowing our mounts ever 250 miles is getting old. I was thinking of window welding the stock mounts to remover the holes and hopefully add some rigidity.
 

Total Loss

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I wonder if a stock rubber mount with a large washer cup and prawl inserts into the 4 gaps would help. I had something similar on my old Rzr and it worked great- some vibrations but minimal movement...kind of a happy medium. Doesn't allow the vulcanized rubber to "twist" so much...which causes the premature tearing.
 

novaman64

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I wonder if a stock rubber mount with a large washer cup and prawl inserts into the 4 gaps would help. I had something similar on my old Rzr and it worked great- some vibrations but minimal movement...kind of a happy medium. Doesn't allow the vulcanized rubber to "twist" so much...which causes the premature tearing.

Any pics of this?
 

Total Loss

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I found some old photos- you can see the Rzr mounts had a full ring around the rubber- the cup would fit inside nicely.
They worked perfect though. Limited movement but still allowed for some deflection.


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Capture.PNG
 

novaman64

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I found some old photos- you can see the Rzr mounts had a full ring around the rubber- the cup would fit inside nicely.
They worked perfect though. Limited movement but still allowed for some deflection.


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Very cool. Thanks. Looks easy enough to make something like that on the lathe. Have to give it a whirl when my mounts give up the ghost.
 

Total Loss

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I may look for a "cup" that has the correct diameter and notch them. Like a hole saw. Since I don't have a lathe. Maybe buy a set when mine wear out and make the cup before I install them.
 

RDS-Scatman

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Whats your thoughts on the solid mounts? I was thinking of running them on the transaxle and leaving the motor mounts stock rubber. A solid mount does concern me on a transaxle aluminum case, but blowing our mounts ever 250 miles is getting old. I was thinking of window welding the stock mounts to remover the holes and hopefully add some rigidity.

At first I thought they were gonna be the ticket, since as the driver I didn't notice any difference (maybe a slight bit of extra shake). Then on the next ride with my wife (her first time in with the solids) I started the engine and she looked at me with a WTF was that look and I played it off. We went on a 70 mile ride at 45miles she was getting "sea sick" from the vibration and asked to drive. So we switched and BAM, she started the engine and knew what the morning WTF look was for. So 45 miles back and I was seriously annoyed as a passenger feeling the vibration.

So my thoughts are... They are solid (pun intended) and work as they should, I would have left them there if the feeling from the driver seat was the same on the passenger. Now if you have aftermarket seats that don't touch that rear mount they are probably fine as a permanent fix (time would tell on every ones opinions of metal fatigue and stresses).

Doing a 50/50 rubber on the front "motor mount" side and solids on the rear "trans-axle" side could work, but might also blow thru the front's as they would take all the vibration load. I have zero experience with the other comments on window welds and fillers, but sounds like something to consider.
 

fastcash

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Todd Romano posted this up... Apparently they have been modifying their cars with this extra mount and they claim it helps.

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novaman64,
On Todd's advice we added the additional front mounts, after both Norra's we have not experienced any
engine related mount failures. The motor/transmounts were all cracked and we have replaced them with
the solid mounts. We believe the horse pad under the trans saved our mounts and is critical to use if not using
better mounts. The pad deteriorates with use and must be inspected/rotated/replaced as needed because it compresses
under the weight of the motor.
Also, we installed Speeds water pump kit, really nice stuff, very complete and high quality. Our factory water pump with
2000 miles was definitely showing signs of wear. Seems necessary if competing with the XX.
Now, if we can just figure out how to cool the belt!!!
Chris
 
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