XX tech and parts thread

43mod

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Finally going to figure out why my pre runner xx wont run. Plugs good. Found intake tubes pulled away from head. Engine mounting afu ! Decided tractors were more fun for the afternoon. Woll tear it down tomorrow. Meed it to bevready to pre run the 500. Wish i would have put that extra mount in before breaking things........
 

jon coleman

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Finally going to figure out why my pre runner xx wont run. Plugs good. Found intake tubes pulled away from head. Engine mounting afu ! Decided tractors were more fun for the afternoon. Woll tear it down tomorrow. Meed it to bevready to pre run the 500. Wish i would have put that extra mount in before breaking things........
pictures ,or its fake news...🤣
 

43mod

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They were intact. Engine should come out tonight for inspection and repair. 775fab mounts going in along w jagged s high capacity dry sump tank and speed h2o pump kit. It should never break again right ? 😂
 

afortune46

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They were intact. Engine should come out tonight for inspection and repair. 775fab mounts going in along w jagged s high capacity dry sump tank and speed h2o pump kit. It should never break again right ? 😂
well not until the next time... lol
 

43mod

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Looking fir a simple clutch blower install i came up w this. It flows into both intake tubes. Hope it works. Probably the easiest mod i have made.
3018FB90-8C66-440F-8515-691BE9783876.jpeg
ED384876-639E-4032-93C8-DBFDEFB306C6.jpeg
 

novaman64

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I think Im gonna mount one of the raiator fans as a puller on the clutch cover....
 

43mod

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Already done. Still not enough. I am more a fab guy than tuner. I need you to make my clutch work better !
 

novaman64

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Already done. Still not enough. I am more a fab guy than tuner. I need you to make my clutch work better !
Hah, ive been playing with different springs and weights.. I think I finally got mine dialed… What size tires are you running?
 

jon coleman

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what gets hot& what fails? belt i assume, ?, part getting hot that causes failure needs more heatsink, some kinda finned/ slabb of aluminum attached somehow to 'hot 'part to ' soke' up excesses heat& disspearse it through the air from fans more efficiently
 

afortune46

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Make sure you aren't preventing air flow in bound by obstructing the intake like that , our short course cars use an additional intake so we increase the cfm going into that compartment , we also vent the back side of the cover to increase outlet pressure.
 

slvrbullet

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Make sure you aren't preventing air flow in bound by obstructing the intake like that , our short course cars use an additional intake so we increase the cfm going into that compartment , we also vent the back side of the cover to increase outlet pressure.
Alex, do you have any pictures of the setups you guys have on the Speedwerx cars.
 

43mod

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The air box is already divided between ckutch and engine sides so i think i am ok. We shall see if it helps or not. So far no need for more power if belts are too hot. I finally bought good belts instead of being cheap about it. Heading to the 500 right now.
 

afortune46

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Alex, do you have any pictures of the setups you guys have on the Speedwerx cars.
I'll get you some pictures this weekend when I get to Crandon , if I have service ill post up but I'm not holding my breath on having anything for cell coverage.

The air box is already divided between ckutch and engine sides so i think i am ok. We shall see if it helps or not. So far no need for more power if belts are too hot. I finally bought good belts instead of being cheap about it. Heading to the 500 right now.
Its more for the correct scfm , at idle your bilge pump will produce more than the clutch fan can but at higher rpm the clutch fan will want to pull more air than what the bilge pump can provide and it chokes down the inlet process, the outlet is ok in stock form but the pressure from an additional inlet can benefit with an additional outlet.

Another thing we learned is break in your belts all in advance - we run oem belts and put 100 miles on them before they ever get put on a racecar on the track , varying throttle speed limiting any wot pulls and making sure the exposed edges are all good and heat cycled. When you're on the line or getting ready to go out its always good to keep the belt good and hot especially running oversized/heavy tires, cycling the rpm's in neutral will get and keep the belt warm, that way when its go time and you push on the loud peddle the belt is hot , gripping and you dont slip it and hour glass it.
 

jon coleman

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I'll get you some pictures this weekend when I get to Crandon , if I have service ill post up but I'm not holding my breath on having anything for cell coverage.



Its more for the correct scfm , at idle your bilge pump will produce more than the clutch fan can but at higher rpm the clutch fan will want to pull more air than what the bilge pump can provide and it chokes down the inlet process, the outlet is ok in stock form but the pressure from an additional inlet can benefit with an additional outlet.

Another thing we learned is break in your belts all in advance - we run oem belts and put 100 miles on them before they ever get put on a racecar on the track , varying throttle speed limiting any wot pulls and making sure the exposed edges are all good and heat cycled. When you're on the line or getting ready to go out its always good to keep the belt good and hot especially running oversized/heavy tires, cycling the rpm's in neutral will get and keep the belt warm, that way when its go time and you push on the loud peddle the belt is hot , gripping and you dont slip it and hour glass it.
curious , do belts go through ' heat cycles' like race tires?, after a few the rubber gets too hard, and tires just dont get stickey, they dont wear, but they just slide all over and get Hot, are there different ' race compounds' in belts like in race tires?,
 

afortune46

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curious , do belts go through ' heat cycles' like race tires?, after a few the rubber gets too hard, and tires just dont get stickey, they dont wear, but they just slide all over and get Hot, are there different ' race compounds' in belts like in race tires?,
They do , but it takes a very long time and its all dependent on conditions - if you stay up on your clutch maintenance (blowing clutches out every so often etc) you'll see rubber building up on it.

for example - in the AC 800 snowmobile there are two belts for it suffix 083 and 084 , the 083 is a std rubber belt , it provides excellent grip but its dimensions vary as it heats up. The 084 is similar to the XX belt as its kevlar re-enforced - it takes time to heat it up but once its hot it will grip like the 083 and it holds it dimensions much tigher since thermal expansion of the belt is less. The problem is folks will run the 084 then throw 160+ hp into it and hour glass it because of wot conditions before its warm - this hour glasses the belt which leads to pulled cords and failures.
 

jon coleman

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has anyone tried different coatings/ friction materiel on clutch surfaces?, sounds like its a Narrow sweet happy spot on temp, belt, clutch, & some other variable im missingo_O
 

43mod

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Good info sir. Thank you. I can disable the fan easily by pulling the elbow off. I will try it both ways. I do have an ev fan over the secondary. Again thanks for the feedback i wish i had more time to learn to tune tjings. Need to stop working.
 

afortune46

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So here is out heat mitigation setup. I was wrong we have removed the 3rd inlet and are running out fan directly to the inlet that is on the cover of the intake. We also remove on some cars the outlet that clamps on the body and is the elbow.

On the cover we also cut it 4.75" from the last clamp on the flat part of the top side of the cover to the back side of the cover diagonally to the lower clamp above the CV (we still use that clamp)

Fan is a 400cfm squirrel cage, and we cover the second inlet with a frogzskin material so that tear offs do not enter the intlet tube - we sucked one in at ERX and it plugged the fan up and wrapped itself up and blew the belt.
 

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