Yota electrical problem?

NorCal_Prerunner

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In my 88 toyota, the charge light and the eBrake light in the dash keep randomly going on and off at the same time?

When I had an alternator failure previously, only the charge light went on.

Why would both the charge and the brake light go on at the same time?

I have checked the + and - on the batery and alternator. I have also checked the ground from the head to the firewall. My battery is staying fully charged so the alternator is working. I don't think it is a charging problem.

Where and what should I be looking for to isolate the problem?

Thanks for the help. J_

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geoff

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my 87 did this when the battery was going... i got a new battery and it was all good again.

I dont knwo why the ebrake light was going on too, but it does.

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BIG_FAT_LOSER

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I have an 84 toyota

Last saturday at the jump contest I lost my alternator / fan belt and I too had the charge and brake light come on. Previously the same thing happened when the a broken motor mount allowed the back of the alternator to contact the mount, damaging the plug on the rear. Charge and brake light must be a sign of bad or no alternator connection.

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ntsqd

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Me too. I have an '84 4wd Yota and when the alt went south w/o me both lights came on. As best as I can figure this is due to a diode going away in such a fashion that some AC can make it's way back thru the warning lights and 'looks' like a ground to the lights. I found that the regulator was also toast after this. Might have been the 280 mile drive home I did after the lights came on, might have been toast as soon as the lights came on.
Take note of what the plug on your alternator and the plug going into the regulator look like. On my truck there are two different posibilites and they almost interchange, but don't work. The voice of experience......

TS

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orvacian

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I recently replaced my alternator after it did exactly what your truck is doing now. There is a company that sells on e-bay a 130 amp alternator that bolts right into the stock location for less then a new standard alternator from Auto Zone, and they don't even need a core! I got one and I am very happy with it! This link is an example, call them for Toyota applications. If you call them you can order it direct, you don't have to bid for one on e-bay.
<A target="_blank" HREF=http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1836747883>http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1836747883</A>
 

ntsqd

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It does indeed come on with low brake fluid, but that is appearently not the only reason it does. Brake fluid level was the first thing I checked. The second was for a hung switch float. Both were normal and both lights were still on. If you look at the wiring diagram in the FSM, the two circuits are tied together in a funny way. I gotten my head into the 'zen' of most European wiring theologies, have yet to figure out the asian 'zen' of wiring. Have about concluded I'm looking for something that doesn't exist.

TS

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orvacian

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BTW, your alternator may be bad even if you battery stays charged. The regulator may be putting out too low or high voltage intermittently. Also, check the stock alternator wiring, it is not that great. Bad engine grounds could also be the problem. Auto zone does free testing of alternator and batt, that might help. Another thing, if you are not sure which dash lights come on when the alternator goes out, just pull the alternator fuse and start the truck. To check for bad alt wiring, put your volt meter from the alt pos output post to the batt pos terminal. If the cable is good, your meter should read less then about .5 volts with the engine running.
 

drtdevil93

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i wouldnt in a million years trust the people at autozone with testing of a battery, or anything for that matter. i buy many parts from autozone (its closest to me), and i always get to explain what the part is or does, and they usually are still confused. just 2 weeks ago i sent my dad to get a new battery after doing my own "testing". he came back with it cause they told him it was working perfectly, but that he should buy a new starter, solenoid, and possibly a starter. of course, they were wrong, it was the battery. no insult to anyone that works there, but there isnt exactly a lot of training needed to get a job there, yet they have no problem giving advice, right or wrong.

erik
 

NorCal_Prerunner

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Tested the battery. Cold Cranking Amps were fine. Fired up the motor, no juice gong to the battery. Removed the alternator, brought it to the local Kragen to throw it on the test bench. They didn't have the right connector. Though they would, (yeah right, just wasting my time). Bought a new alternator, slapped it in, seems ok. Going to test it tommorow. Just the quick follow up.........

Surprised the battery isn't toast..........

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